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Along the sun-drenched coast of western Turkey lies a remarkable archaeological triangle that offers one of the most rewarding journeys into the ancient world. Priene, Miletus, and
Didyma—often grouped together as the "PMD" tour—represent three distinct facets of Ionian civilization: the perfectly planned city, the great maritime power, and the sacred sanctuary
of oracles. These three ancient sites, nestled amid cotton fields and olive groves, provide an intimate and often crowd-free alternative to the more famous ruins of Ephesus. Priene: The First Grid-Planned City Set dramatically against the sheer escarpment of Mount Mycale, the ruins of Priene offer one of the most complete examples of ancient Greek town planning in existence. Originally a coastal city, Priene's harbor has long since been silted up by the Meander River, leaving it perched above a plain of cotton fields. This 2,500-year-old Ionian city was among the first ever to be laid out on a grid system, with six main streets running east-west and fifteen crossing at right angles, dividing the town into approximately eighty city blocks. The Highlights of Priene Climbing through the pine-shaded hillside ruins, visitors encounter several exceptional structures: The Temple of Athena Polias: Funded and dedicated by Alexander the Great in 334 BC, this temple sits at the city's highest point. Designed by Pytheos—the architect of the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus—it was recognized in antiquity as a classic example of the pure Ionic style. The five columns standing today were reconstructed in the 1960s from rubble, offering a glimpse of the temple's original grandeur. The Theatre: This small Hellenistic theatre served not only for performances but also as a meeting place for the ekklesia—the people's parliament. Look carefully at the first tier of seating, where you'll find both bench-backed seats and "armchair" seating designated for particularly important spectators. The Bouleuterion (Senate House): Located south of the theatre, this remarkably intact building once seated 640 council members and contained a central altar with an eternal flame. Unlike many other sites where imagination is required, Priene's ruins allow you to feel the daily rhythm of ancient civic life. Miletus: The Philosophers' Port Once described as the "greatest and wealthiest of the Greek cities before the Persian invasion," Miletus was a maritime superpower whose sailors founded colonies across the Black Sea and beyond. The city was the intellectual heart of the ancient world—home to philosophers like Thales, who accurately predicted a solar eclipse, and the place that gave its alphabet to the classical world. Julius Caesar himself visited Miletus after his release from pirates, raising a fleet here to pursue and execute his captors. The Theatre of Miletus Today, Miletus' star attraction is its Great Theatre—a monumental structure that dominates the site. Originally built in the 4th century BC with a capacity of 5,300, it was expanded during the Roman period to accommodate 15,000 spectators. The theatre's evolution tells a fascinating story: during the Byzantine era, the cavea was transformed into a small settlement, and a fortress was built atop the seating area—its walls still visible today like a crown crowning the ruins. One of the theatre's most remarkable features is the set of inscriptions reserving seating for specific groups, including one that reads "Jews and God fearers"—evidence that Miletus was a remarkably tolerant, multicultural society. Behind the stage, you can explore the subterranean passages and chambers that once housed the theatre's machinery, still accessible thanks to the building's remarkable stability despite centuries of earthquakes. Other Sights in Miletus The Baths of Faustina: Named after the wife of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, who ordered their construction. The Ionian Stoa: A colonnaded covered walkway along one of the city's main roads. The Menteşe Mosque: Built by the local Turkish beylik in 1403, when the city was still inhabited, this medieval mosque offers a fascinating layer of later history. The Miletus Museum: Located on site, this museum houses artifacts excavated from the city and provides essential context for understanding the ruins. Didyma: The Temple of Oracles In antiquity, Didyma was not a city but a sanctuary—the sacred oracle of Apollo, as famous in the Hellenic world as Delphi. A 17-kilometer Sacred Way connected it to Miletus, lined with statues of seated rulers and lions (many now in the British Museum). The Colossal Temple of Apollo The Temple of Apollo (Didymaion) is one of the largest temples ever built in the Greek world—second only to the temples at Ephesus and Samos. Construction began around 300 BC, but the temple was never completed; despite centuries of work, the project proved too ambitious even for the Hellenistic world. The Colossal Columns: Soaring over 20 meters (66 feet) high, these columns are among the most impressive in the ancient world. One fallen column behind the temple lies in dramatic sections—massive stone discs stacked like fallen dominoes, giving visitors a visceral sense of the temple's scale. The Medusa Head: One of the most recognized images of the region, this carved Medusa head adorns the temple and has become an icon featured in tourism brochures throughout Turkey. The Oracle's Inner Sanctuary: Through the temple's entrance, you can view the sacred inner courtyard where the oracle once delivered prophecies. It was this oracle that encouraged the Roman Emperor Diocletian's persecution of Christians. Planning Your Visit Getting There and Around The most convenient way to visit these three sites is by joining a day tour from Selçuk or Kuşadası, which typically costs 30-40€ per person including transportation and a guide. For independent travelers, renting a car offers maximum flexibility—you can easily drive between the sites via the secondary roads 09-55 and 09-54, all clearly signposted. Public transport is possible but requires patience: take minibuses from Söke to Priene (near Güllübahçe village) and from Didim to Miletus (near Balat village). Practical Information Entry Fees: As of late 2024, entry fees are approximately 4€ for Priene, 6€ for Miletus, and 6€ for Didyma. A separate fee applies for the Miletus Museum. Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant temperatures. Summer can be intensely hot, with limited shade at the sites. What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes, water, sunscreen, and plenty of imagination—while these ruins are evocative, little has been reconstructed. Accommodation: Selçuk is the best base for exploring all three sites. Three Destinations, One Journey Visiting Priene, Miletus, and Didyma in a single day offers a remarkable journey through the breadth of ancient Ionian civilization. You'll climb the perfectly planned streets of Priene, stand in the great theatre where philosophers once debated, and gaze up at the columns of a temple so ambitious it was never finished. Together, these three sites tell a story of ambition, intellect, and devotion—a story that continues to unfold along Turkey's Aegean coast. |
